El Chalten is a small town nestled in the Los Glaciers National Park. Being a gateway into the park and it’s many trails it is a hub of activity. The town itself is small and basic with eateries, hostels and convenient super markets. Having been to the tourist centre we decided on the most popular Fitz Roy hike, Laguna de los Tres. It is roughly an 8 hour return trip up to the Fitz Roy peak with lakes and Glaciers.
Laguna de Los Tres Fitz Roy Hike
Marked as a moderate hike it was far from moderate for us! There are two starting points for the hike, one in the town and one further outside the town that you can get to via an organised bus. Being in the van we stayed at the starting point just outside the town to be surrounded by nature and hopefully avoid the mice- I’ll tell you about that another time.
So the Laguna de los Tres Fitz Roy trail certainly does start of as a moderate hike down in the valley and increases in elevation as we made our way into the woods. Being the most popular hike in the area it was very busy with crowds of people and I’m not exaggerating here, a constant long line of people snaking the ascent. I should note though, I don’t believe it’s always this busy but this was the only good weather day for several days in a row. Hence every tourist in El Chalten decided this was the day to hike the Fitz Roy.
Starting the hike at Rio Electrico instead of starting in the town meant we passed by the impressive Piedras Blancas Glacier. This is the opportune moment for a fantastic photo with a glacial back drop including mountains and the Piedras Blancas glacial lake. Hiking to this glacier is about a 3 hour return journey and a great hike on it’s own.
Heading deeper onto the trail we found Poincenot campsite, a quaint and peaceful area in the woods perfect for a nights rest. If you enjoy camping out in the woods I would certainly recommend a night stay to refresh before the hardest part of the trail ahead.
Emerging from the woods into the valley the Fitz Roy peak loomed over us as I looked up with a sense of apprehension of what lay ahead. If you’re unsure you’ll make it to to the top, the Fitz Roy viewpoint from down below is the perfect place to stop. The photos can’t quite give the distance and height the justice it well deserves. The trail zigzags intensely at a near perpendicular angle up the sharp mountain peak. Though beautiful with my fitness level (or lack thereof) it was a daunting thought. With perseverance however and the encouraging support of Will we made it to the top. A slow arduous journey and certainly not one I would call moderate! But we made it.
The glacier and lake were certainly worth every step as we sat with our lunch watching over the view. Though the thought that we still had to make the return journey loomed over us!
We started the journey back with enthusiasm, especially as the trail had quietened a great deal to the extent we had a lot of it to ourselves. Which we enjoyed all the more for it having been so busy earlier. Though towards to the end it did feel never ending, and then the biting rain and wind came.
It took us roughly 9 hours to compete the Tres Lagunas Hike, it was a long and difficult journey but we were able to take our time and use the whole day to enjoy the adventure. For the most part at least, by the end of the trail I was so over it!
Cost
To visit the national park whether here in El Chalten, down at the Perito Merino Glacier or anywhere else there is a cost of $45000 Argentine Dollars per person. This is a fairly new charge only brought in last year. Concession rates are available for locals, the elderly and students which vary in price.
For us, living this lifestyle on a budget we do feel that it’s far too expensive. We can’t afford to spend $90US to enter each national park and find ourselves making some tough decisions.
However, within the Los Glaciers national park, once you have paid the initial $45US, you can then get a reduced rate. If you were to enter the park again the following day and each day after that it reduces further.
Hints and tips
- Bring food and plenty of water
- Bring a raincoat, jumper sunglasses and suncream- the weather can change very quickly
- Wear sensible hiking shoes- the terrain can be uneven and slippery
- Hiking to the valley beyond the campsite before the ascent to the Fitz Roy Peak is a great hike in itself – don’t push yourself to go further, it is a hard trail from there on
- At the bottom of the valley it says its 1km and takes an hour – that is not accurate- not just for us but for everyone.
- Leave early, it’s a long hike and you don’t want to get stuck in the dark. Plus the earlier you leave the more likely you are to miss the crowds
Read more of our posts on things to see and do along Route 40 Patagonia:
- The Road of the Seven Lakes
- Cueva de las Manos
- Parque Patagonia
- Ushuaia – The End of the World
- Perito Moreno Glacier
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