Chiloe is not only an island but an identity, the Chilote people are very proud of their individual culture. Shrouded in myths the island has its own special enchanting charm. As June began and the rainy season loomed we managed to get a few good days in Chiloe before the weather turned.
Muelle de las Almas
Hiking the ‘ Dock of Souls’ is a must. A short hike across hilly terrain leads you to a spiralled wooden dock on the clifftop overlooking the Pacific. Mapuche folklore tells the story of Tempilcahue a ferryman of souls. He guides the souls from the land to Pu-am -which from my understanding is similar to a collective universal soul or some kind of afterlife.
Loved ones of the dead would often place turquoise stones (llancas) next to their dead as payment to allow the souls of pets depart as well.
The soul would have to come to the cliff top and call out for the ferryman to collect them. Though Tempilcahue does’t take every soul and those left behind are said to wonder the cliffs crying. Legend says if you speak with one of these lost souls you will be back at the dock within the year as a lost soul yourself.
Don’t be fooled by the eery folklore, the surrounding nature is in equal parts stunning as it is tranquil. We were very fortunate to visit off season which meant we had the entire hike to ourselves. Do be warned though it is a very popular hike in season and can be very busy.
Duhatao
Hike across the beach and cliff tops at Duhatao. With many kilometres of land stretching along the coast, it’s the perfect place for a coastal hike. Find untouched beaches, hidden waterfalls and portal like sea caves along the shore. You can hike as much or as little as you want with various viewpoints along the way. I would suggest being mindful of the weather however as some of the steep trail can get very wet and slippery. Starting where the Chepu river meets the pacific we were instantly greeted by a spectacular cove and walk through he forest.
It is important to stay vigilant whilst out walking in the woods, you don’t want to fall prey to the Trauco. Yet another Chilote legend speaks of an ugly short creature lurking in Chiloes forests with its magical staff. It has the power to instantly attract women with its gaze and breath! Victims of the Trauco return from the woods pregnant.
Isla Aucar
The small Island is connected to Chiloe by a long boardwalk across the sea. It hosts a cemetery and small wooden church, it has great meaning and spirituality. Also known as the ‘Island of the Sailing Souls’ when a Chilote writer compared it to a ship with dead sailors waiting to set sail.
The small island is peaceful with its botanical garden and small forest running along its coastline.
Quemchi
A quaint fishing town on the eastern coast of the island. Though it may look like a sleepy seaside town Quemchi with its proximity to Isla Aucar it is rich in culture and myths. With long stretches of beach it is a great getaway when the summer sun hits and the perfect stop for the catch of the day at the municipal market. Whilst strolling the beachfront keep an eye out for La Pincoya, a beautiful mermaid/ sea nymph figure said to be draped in seaweed and dances on the sea front. It is said this dancing controls the riches caught by the fishermen. If she is seen dancing with her back to the sea it indicates a bad haul but if she seen dancing facing the sea, this is seen as a good omen for a plentiful catch.
Making new friends in Queilen
It just so happened that a friend we made at the start of our travelling journey in New Zealand is from this spectacular little island. Though he is still back in New Zealand we were welcomed by his parents into their home. If you ever find yourself being invited into a Chiloen home, say yes!
We were total strangers but were treated with the same affection as a old friend. We were fed some delicious food and shared plenty of home made cider. It was a full family occasion with aunts, uncles, brothers and nephews and we all sat around chatting and laughing. It was a lovely little respite to living on the road and so warming to have been greeted with open arms.
Liquor de Oro from Chonchi
Translated to liquor of gold given its yellowish colouring is a typical product of Chonchi as it is hand crafted by only a few people from the town. It was made with whey and brandy and filtered over a week. Lemon peel and saffron are used to give it its statement golden glow. Whilst in Chonchi we went to the local municipal market and found Maria manning her stall. She looked just as happy to see us as she does in her photo on the bottle. But we sampled the liquor anyway and inevitably bought a bottle. Just as we were leaving she offered up a secondary tasting of a chocolate liquor and by the grin on her face she knew we were going to but that one too! Though the chocolate liquor can last for a year once opened she told us she was sure it wouldn’t last that long… and she was right… *takes large sip*.
Would you like some alcohol with your alcohol? if yes, then try a Chonchi special cocktail called -which we annoyingly can’t remember the name of- by mixing Licor de Oro with whisky!
Traditional food in Dalcahue
There are many places to try traditional Chiloen food but traveling out of season it was little harder to find. We did find a version of a traditional dish called Curanto is Dalcahue food market, however it was the Curanto a la Olla or Pulmay, meaning it is cooked in a pot. Luckily we were also able to try Soipla Marisco a seafood soup. During the on season (roughly between October and April) Dalcahue also hosts an artisanal market with food, crafts and fresh produce.
What is Chiloe’s Curanto?
Curanto meaning hot stone is a traditional Chiloen dish consisting of seafood, meat and potatoes cooked by hot stones in an underground pit. The food is wrapped in large nalca leaves placed on top of hot stones in the pit and covered with earth. The heat from the stones work to steam the food wrapped in leaves releasing earthy smoky flavours. Curanto is usually prepared in large batches for meant to feed large quantities of people at celebrations and gatherings.
Ferry to Chiloe
The ferry to and from Chiloe is $20 each way and takes roughly 30 minutes, it’s such a quick and easy journey. We just drove straight onto the boat and then someone came to our door for payment, 30 minutes later we departed. It wasn’t great weather when we crossed so we couldn’t see much but I imagine on a sunny you’d get some beautiful views.
You can watch our YouTube video on our time in Chiloe as well:
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