A raw and rustic off the beaten track destination, filled with dramatic scenery, hot springs and friendly locals. Alto Bio Bio is like stepping into a bygone era where time has stood still leaving a residue of authentic charm.
Alto Bio Bio Destination
Alto Bio Bio is a small commune in central Chile with with routes leading into the mountains of Reserva Nacional Alto Bío Bío. The road from here splits in two one heading north west and the other heading south west, we took the northern road. A long dirt track spanning 60km, snaking through the mountains following the valley below. With the promise of hot springs at the end of the turbulent road we persevered over the rough terrain.
The mountainous region was not as unpopulated as we first expected it to be with small settlements spread far apart set in the valley and hillsides. Ranch style farms hidden deep within the Andes with huasos (chilean cowboys) manning the fields and livestock. Every time we snaked through a mountain with rugged cliff sides either side of we could imagine being in an old country western movies with the huasos all lined up on the ridge above. On their horses in their ponchos and Chupalla straw hat, only now they have a mobile phone in their hand.
A Hiking Adventure in the Snow
We attempted to reach the end of the 60km road to the promised hot springs, however about 8km out we decided to park up and hike the rest. By now there were no road signs and not much sign of life, we really were deep within the Andes. We left around 1pm (after work) which was our first mistake having packed some lunch and a hot tea for the journey. Given that we didn’t really know where we were going or even how long it would take we should have left much earlier in the day to allow for time. We also only had around $15 on us and hoped that A) the hot springs were open and B) we had enough cash or they would take pity on us an accept our measly offering.
Our second mistake was underestimating the snow. When we reached what we believed to be roughly half way the snow started to appear. At first it was light and manageable, just a thin icy layer. But it didn’t take long, the higher we climbed the the thicker snow got. It got to about a foot deep when we decided we couldn’t continue. Though we do enjoy hiking we are not avid experienced hikers and certainly weren’t prepared for a snowy hike. So sadly concluded it would be dangerous to continue on the wintry terrain. Stopping for a bit of lunch in the snow and enjoyed a hot tea we spied a waterfall in the not so far distance which we persevered to reach before turning around.
Camping and Other Hikes
Most hikes in the area were around eight hours that head to higher altitudes so there wasn’t much chance of more hiking given the snow we faced. We stayed at a few captivating spots in the wilderness on out trip up and down the mountain range before slowly making our way back down. There are so many places to stay with many locals offering camping on their land and free camping being acceptable. We only ever free camp (or wild camp) and find it gives a different experience. Staying on a campsite can mean you meet locals and see an insight into there lives but free camping allows you to witness the solidarity on nature and bask in its striking beauty.
Hints and Tips
- Due to the remoteness of the mountains, the closest petrol station in Santa Barbara which is roughly an hours drive from the start of the mountain pass. It might be possible to fill up from locals with tanks but you can’t rely on it. You may not be able to fill up and it would most definitely be cash based so go prepared.
- Alto Bio Bio is the last town before heading into the mountains but there is no petrol station. Here you’ll find a small tourist centre, basic necessities such us small mercados, ferreterias and health care.
- There is plenty of camping available with locals offering their land but there are no luxury campsites and hotels.
- Bring cash. Past the town of Alto BioBio everything is cash based.
- Phone reception is spotty at best.
Watch our YouTube video on our time in Alto Bio Bio:
Don’t forget to FOLLOW US on
Leave a Reply