Starting at the top of the Quebrada de los Cuervos ravine we met a knowledgable guide who spoke about the nature reserve, telling us of its biodiversity, subtropical climate and wide variety of endangered birds. Though it’s only a 3km walk the suggested time is around 3 hours due to the steep cliff sides, rough terrain and pausing to enjoy the views and wonders offered. The last leg of the hike is under construction as they are building wooden boardwalks, ladders and platforms to aid in climbing the cliff face on your return. It is suggested by the national park to turn back once you’ve reached this point as its not yet finished. The guide, however, mentioned most people ignore this advice and continue ahead and if we were careful, we would be okay. But ultimately it was up to us if we wanted to take that risk. Well why not eh? (Sorry Mum).
The start of the hike
We are taken through stages of visual wonders, with scents lifted from the vegetation and a subtropical microclimate that feels akin to walking through a steam room. Everything on this hike was going to ignite each one of our senses. Saying goodbye to the guide we started our ascent, stepping into the undergrowth, glad to be shaded from the sun and unsure of what we might find. The ascent came quickly and at first didn’t seems so bad, with gravel pathways winding through the trees, lulling us into a false sense of security. However it quickly took a turn as the gravel path gave way to rugged bare rocks protruding through the ground, the decline got steeper and the trees and shrubs seemed to crowed over us even more. If it weren’t for the ground being so uneven, forcing us to look down with every step we might have missed a friendly snake as it froze at the sight of us in the middle of the track. Stopping for just a moment to say hello and take a photo, we ventured further leaving the snake in peace.
Rickety bridges
Reaching our first little creek, we came across a rickety bridge over a small stream, it felt like we had walked into an enchanted forest with the moss covered tree branches arching over, their leaves cascading like heavy green rain suspended in the air. The little bridge was slowly giving up its battle with the moss and the moisture of the stream, so we tiptoed carefully over. The sight of this first bridge did make me wonder what we will be facing on the forbidden last leg of our journey, this thought planted a seed that I tried not to indulge.
Subtropical microclimate
From here, I can’t tell you if it was a sudden or a gradual rise but the air around us seemed thicker, sticking to us like steam on a window. Whether the temperature was hotter or not I’m not sure but it certainly felt like it. I think we have entered the subtropical climate. With that came the butterflies. So many beautiful butterflies danced around us as we watched them in wonder. In varying colours and sizes, numerous species accompanied us along the valley floor. If you have ever been to a butterfly house or exhibit you can begin to imagine what we were experiencing as we hiked further along the stream.
The subtropical climate also opened us up to the earthy scents of the woodland shrubs and the sweet fragrances of flowers. Envision wandering through an enchanted forest where the trees arch over you as if to protect you from some unknown danger, their vibrant foliage spilling over creating a welcomed shade from the hot sun. A sticky heat clinging to you, whilst venturing over crumbling bridges with butterflies hovering around you and balmy aromas floating in the air. That’s where we were, we felt like explorers on uncharted land experiencing the best nature has to offer.
The incline begins
The walk through the magical undergrowth was over when we reached our first incline, heading out of the protection from the trees and into the heat of the sun. There seemed to be no actual pathway just a clearing of shrubs revealing boulders to climb and bare rock face to scale. We thought it was steep coming down, well this was even steeper. Will being much more the explorer than I, forged on ahead, striding into the distance as we criss-crossed the incline. Losing sight of him several times to find he was never far, just hidden by thick greenery. I on the other hand, at times crawling on my hands and feet, took a slower pace as I advanced up the cliff face. Winding to and fro but continuously up, the sticky heat was left behind but that didn’t mean we weren’t still sticky and hot from the sweaty trek.
New world vultures
Coming away from the captivating valley floor, though we lost the humid air and natures aromas we fortunately didn’t leave behind the butterflies, they continued to accompany us on our hike even as we reached the peak of the hill top. The trees around us now much shorter allowing the sun to reach their leaves giving them a lighter colour and they glowed a vivid green. It also allowed for views of the valley around us, though we couldn’t yet see down into the valley below. As we walked along the top anticipating the precipice, we could see the summits of other rolling hill tops. As the sky had now opened up, we could bare witness to the new world vultures circling the sky in search of it’s prey. Quebrada de los Cuervos being home to varying species, it boasts spectacular sightings of this predatory bird.
The first viewpoint
Meeting the cliffs edge, the fauna opened on to a clearing and the rock levelled out to a natural viewing platform. Overlooking the valley below and the tree covered cliff face opposite, we stopped for a moment to enjoy the sweet breeze as it cooled us. Taking in the view, we readied ourselves for the steep decent. Guided by ropes to steady ourselves we took it slowly down the treacherous trail. Down, down and down we went, Will once again leading the way and holding his hand out for support as we clambered and scrambled our way over the rocky terrain. Steep steps forged out of the surface of the cliff wound tightly back and forth as the trees got taller hogging the light once more. Their roots creating stumbling hazards but their low hanging branches and sturdy trunks leant security as we leant on them for support. Attentively taking each step, conscious of the consequence of any miss-step sending us uncontrollably tumbling. Slowly the sound of running water grew ever louder, encouraging us to continue as we glimpsed sightings through gaps in the trees of the flowing river. By this point we had left the butterflies behind us but in return were greeted by mysterious looking dragonflies flitting past us on their own adventure. We finished our decent on narrow wooden stair cases that more resembled ladders of a bygone era that led us down to the riverbed.
Respite at the pebbled shore
Following the short boardwalk that lay where the edge of the forest met the riverbed, we too met the river as it pooled in a basin over looked by the towering ravine walls. Taking our respite here, we left the cover of the trees and sat on the pebbled shoreline and eagerly removed our boots and socks to plunge our feet into the crisp water. Sitting here a while, we rested and spoke of what we had already seen, reminiscing over the butterflies and the panoramic views. While snacking on some bread, we considered the decline we had already completed and pondered what lay ahead of us.
Steep Inclines and blocked paths
Feeling refreshed we returned to our hike to find the walkway had been blocked off, with a little detour we veered round, following the river further down to rejoin the wooded path. As we ventured off the beaten track that little seed I’d felt earlier was starting blossom, but still I did my best to ignore it. At the edge of the incline a stream trickled down giving us clean fresh water to refill our bottles as we readied ourselves to embark on the steep incline to the top of the ravine. Beginning our hike once again we climbed up the rugged rock face at an almost perpendicular angle, again using both hands and feet to hoist ourselves up.
We soon reached signs precariously hanging advising of the danger ahead as the area is under restoration. Oh! That little seed has blossomed into a little anxious flower. Visualising rickety boardwalks suspended in the air, either in need of repair or only partially constructed with nothing below expect a fall to certain death, I’m beginning to regret the bold decision to take on this challenge. I’m no explorer extraordinaire and have no business free climbing a cliff face. My imagination was running away with me as it does at times, so I grounded myself and had to laugh and shake it off. Reminding myself that the guide wouldn’t have mentioned it if they thought the journey would end in peril. Plus they did say that most people finished the hike ignoring the parks suggestion to turn around at that point, so how dangerous could it really be? On we forged.
Under construction
Climbing up unlevelled boardwalks, it was necessary to mind our step as to not step on a rotten panel and find ourselves half on the boardwalk and half under it but other than that it really wasn’t too bad. Some of the steep staircases had no hand rails or ropes to steady yourself but with my fear of heights I was likely to crawl up them in any case. In other places the boardwalk was half lifted off the ground and half sinking into the undergrowth requiring a strategic jump to land on a safe footing. And some of the walkway was yet to be completed with gaps and timber obstructing the walkway and some tools laying around. All of this however lead us to the best viewpoint on the entire hike. Sitting on benches on the cliff side we could follow the river with our eyes as it ran off into the distance. We witnessed the glorious predatory birds circling the sky, gliding across the expanse of blue and swooping down with the ravine as its backdrop. Looking down into the valley and across to the other side, with our elevated height we could see far beyond as the densely forested hills stretched out into the horizon.
An armadillo sighting!
In the fauna around us we could a hear a rustling that we first paid no attention to but as it grew louder I peered over the wooden balcony to see an armadillo crawling amongst the foliage. We were both so excited to see this little creature going about its day, and awed over it as we followed it as best we could up the hill side before losing sight of it. Part of our excitement was owed to the fact we had never seen a wild armadillo before with them being native to the americas, but I must admit we do get excited when we see any wildlife in it’s natural habitat. Likely to be just as excited to glimpse a fox when hiking in the UK or getting a close up view of a squirrel scrambling up a tree. We just love to be surrounded by nature and feel it’s acceptance of us when we are allowed these exciting glances of the creatures hiding in it.
The final view
From there the walkway levelled out and was no longer in poor condition or under restoration, we were nearing the top and therefore nearing the end of our hike. Our last stop however was the main viewing platform even higher than our last view, it opened out into a large circular decking area with benches lining the sides. Here we were even closer to the large birds circling us and could get a wonderful close up view of them as their eager eyes scanned the ground below for their prey. The view again looked over the Quebrada de los Cuervos valley and across, following the hilltops into the far distance. With the sun over head, the birds spiralling above us, and the breeze rustling the leaves in the trees surrounding us we took in the view. Soaking up the moment and enjoying the splendour this beautiful world has to offer. This being our last stop and just a short walk back to the van, I’ll leave you here.
Let us know what you thought of this hike, is it something you would like to do, or have you done something similar? We are always wanting suggestions on places to go!
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