After a long and tiring journey we made it to Uruguay, arriving in Montevideo! Now we are waiting until finally it’s time for collecting our campervan, after all the planning of shipping Solero. Stepping out of the airport into the warm sunshine with a cool breeze was just the remedy we needed. Having stood on the tarmac in Luxembourg airport for an hour with our bags at out ankles, slanting rain lashing down on us and and an icy wind whipping round us, all before we’d started our 24 hours of travelling. Plus not having had a lot of sleep as nobody does on long haul flights and up at 4am for our connecting flight from Sao Paulo to Montevideo, all we wanted to do was crash but the journey wasn’t over yet.
Our first bus journey in South America
We first had an hours bus journey from the airport into the city which gave us our first impressions of local life. It was a busy bus and we had several heavy bags so it was a tight squeeze but great to feel the buzz of energy around us as the old bus chugged along. Already we found local people kind and helpful, with out us having to ask they they guided us towards the right bus going in the right direction as we’d gotten a little confused. I think the lost tourist look was evident. Open windows an alternative to air con we know all too well brought with it a scent of marijuana that wafted through the bus – only our eyebrows were the ones raised.
We were at first bewildered by the sight of locals drinking Mate (pronounced MAT-teh). With their flask like cup bubbling over with vibrant green tea leaves and a metal straw protruding out whilst comfortably gripping to a flask of hot water to refill. We soon though came accustomed to this customary drink and later came to understand that this is the Uruguayan way to drink Mate and the surrounding countries all drink it differently. Scenes of wide roads and small ramshackle buildings mixed in with shiny new shop fronts surrounded by a thick of green trees gave way to the high rises of the metropolitan city. Streets become busier and life was a little louder as we ventured deeper in to the heart of the city. As the obvious tourists we were, packed to the gill, the bus driver kindly stopped the bus for us to exit. However for those more familiar with disembarking, the driver simply opens the doors whilst the bus is still slowing and you choose the right moment to jump off and make a hasty exit.
Getting a Certificate of Arrival
Having mistakenly departed the bus early it was a short 15 minute walk to our home away from home, feeling like donkeys with our heavy loads we plodded along anticipating the moment we could unload. First impressions of our apartment.. WOW… look at that view! Panoramic windows with views of the harbour and city.
We didn’t however have time to take it all in, it was a quick turn around, just dropping off bags before heading out the door again. The immigration office was calling for our attention (figuratively speaking that is), we needed to obtain a Certificate Of Arrival as part of the paper work for collecting Solero. Stepping into the office our hearts sank a little as we were at the end of a queue stretching to the doorway, standing half in the building and half outside we sighed in unison and accepted our fate. Luckily, though the queue was long, it was all pretty painless and didn’t take much time at all. Having collected the certificate we then headed over to meet Eduardo, our agent of contact for the shipping company and hand over all the documents for him to copy. Eduardo welcomed us with a warm smile and everything started to feel all the more real. He advised us that all was going well and the ship was on time, he explained the next steps to us and that he would be in touch. So all was well and our worries were eased, what now? RELAX!
Enjoying the views from our B&B
Heading back to our apartment we stopped at a shop and picked up a few essentials, which of course included a 3 litre bottle of wine that we purchased for the equivalent of €1. We were done for the day, we just chilled and enjoyed the view from the safety and comfort of our little apartment. Through those panoramic windows overlooking the harbour we hoped to see the ship coming in with our little van tucked away on it.
Trying the local food
We met our German shipping container buddy Josef and his Mexican partner Ana-Claudia for dinner one evening to try the famous Uruguayan steak. The most popular in Uruguay is Asado, a large plate like grill where various types of meat are barbecued over (traditionally) wood or in a more modern fashion over hot coals. We all spent the evening regaling tales of our travels. Josef spoke of his time when he had shipped his van over to Uruguay from Germany 40 years ago and travelled with two other friends and his brother. Recounting stories of both good times and jarring encounters, we listened attentively as his experiences pass down wisdom to us.
We tried two different cuts of meat, beef ribs and rib eye steak, though we found that they were both a little on the tough side for our taste it still had that wonderful smoky barbecue flavour we were looking for and of course the wine helped to wash it all down. At this stage we knew our ship had arrived in the port and sadly Will and I couldn’t see it from our apartment but Josef had managed to catch a glimpse of it as it sailed past his. We all rejoiced as he showed us a pixelated picture of the stern in the distance half hidden by towering buildings. Ending the night on a cocktail of sorts concocted just for us, it contained a herbal white spirit, vermouth and sparking water. Was it good?… lets just say it got better the more you drank it!
Experiencing the local market
Over the next few days we took our time to visit the city, now I must admit there was a great deal we didn’t get to see, but what we did see we loved. We aren’t great lovers of being in a city as we can find it too busy and draining. But in small doses we stepped out into this engaging new environment to explore around us before retiring back to the safety of our own space.
On one day we went to Feria de Tristan Narvaja which is easily one of the largest markets we have ever seen. This outdoor market was buzzing with activity, the scent of smoky grilled meat and vibrant colours everywhere. As we were walking to the market we came across what we first thought was another smaller market with locals selling odd bits and bobs on blankets laying on the road. As we walked on and the roads and pavements were getting thicker with stalls and people, we realised all the threads of roads are connected. At this one market you could walk for 20 minutes solidly, and would still be in the same market. In it’s centre it buzzes with activity with vendors eager to catch your attention and customers haggling for a good deal.
There was everything you could imagine for sale, from the numerous fruit and veg stalls, to home baked goods, trinkets to shoe laces, souvenirs to antiques, this was the lace to shop. We loaded up on plenty of fresh fruits and vegetables from various stalls and retreated back to the calm of our little home.
Exploring the Old Town
For our next journey into the city we wondered along to the old town, walking through Plaza Independence and through the ‘Gateway of the Citadel’ a large arch like monument built three centuries ago and marks the old entrance to the old city. Walking down the hill heading towards the sea we admired the old colonial architecture and intriguing statues and enjoyed a refreshing ice-cream.
As we met the sea front we looked out to the horizon and imagined our ship cruising along and entering the port. Further round there was ‘Mercado del Puerto’, the port market. As soon as you step inside this indoor Market you are hit with the smell of hot coals, burning wood and barbecued meat from all the restaurants serving traditional asado dishes to tourists filing off the cruise ships in the port. The aroma is at first over whelming but your senses soon become accustomed as you embrace the smokey welcome. Touring round this market we saw plate after plate of varying cooked meats and vegetables, the hum of people grazing and enjoying their meals with friends and family was low compared to that of the restaurants waiters calling for you to enter. Enticing though it was we sensibly opted for a more affordable but by no means less delicious empanada.
Arriving at the port
So the time has come, we are going to be collecting our campervan from Montevideo Port and with some luck a day or two early! The two of us excitedly marched down to Eduardo’s office and awaited further instruction. There were several of us there, a young French guy who had transported his motorbike from South Africa, another German gentleman who had been waiting in Uruguay for 3 months for his van to arrive after being scammed by another shipping company and of course ourselves and Josef. Eduardo walked us through step by step what the plan was and by the end of it no one was quite sure just how many steps there were! Firstly as a group we all walked down into Montevideo port, but with myself not being the owner of the vehicle we weren’t sure if I’d allowed into the port but the guard at the gate kindly let me enter, this however is as far as I can go. So I hauled up in a cafe next to customs and awaited news as Will ventured on.
He was driven deeper into the port and like all these sorts of things there was a great deal of waiting round. I was sent little updates here and there and eagerly anticipated hearing more as I sat helpless and hoping, trying to stretch out a glass of orange juice as to not overstay my welcome.
Opening the shipping container
Finally it was time to open the container! Will and Josef stood side by side, with breath held and fingers crossed as the lock was cut open, the doors separated and – hurray – there stood Solero in all his orange glory! Will climbed through the back door as it’s quite a tight squeeze and re-connects the battery, the van starting first time accounts for a second hurray! There he is glowing his signature RAC orange as Uruguay welcomed him with its beating sun illuminating him to mirror our relief and joy. Nothing is broken, nothing out of place, all was as we left it, the relief sets in and evolves into a hunger to begin our big adventure. Deep sigh of relief all around. Having not heard anything for a while I had gotten a little restless and decided some fresh air and sunshine would do me some good but as I stepped out the door and into the daylight who would I see but Will and Solero roll past and park up.
Clearing customs
Next step was customs, will having parked the van where he had first left me, I accompanied him and and the rest of the gang through customs. To our amazement customs was incredibly easy and ran smoothly, in a matter of minutes paper work was signed and handed over and to our disbelief that was it, not even one peak inside the van. We were free. Having said our thanks to Eduardo and good-byes to all, Solero, Will and I drove out of Montevideo port and onwards onto our Wonderfully Wild Adventure.
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